My mom has been in town for the past 2 weeks, which is why I have been slack on writing. We've had a great time and this weekend, we decided to stay in downtown Shanghai. We chose Pudong, which is a totally new area on the West side of the Huang Pu river ("pu dong" means "west of river", we live in pu xi "east of river"). This area was literally dirt 15 years ago and now it is a totally futuristic metropolis. Amazing.
So, we have a new driver, Mr Dong, who is lovely but kind of green. We told him we were staying at the Hyatt, not realizing there are two Hyatts, each in giant enormous towers in Pudong. Mr Dong drove us up to the first one, Shanghai World Financial Center, which is the tallest building in Asia at the moment. I guess World Financial Centers are always a target because eight Chinese security guards surrounded our minivan and searched it (while Natalie flirted with them, as usual). Mr Dong pulled into the driveway but we didn't realize he was literally pulling into the hotel lobby - we almost crashed through the door of the hotel!! Sheepishly, we got out and headed up to the 87th floor of the Park Hyatt, which looked like a set for Minority Report Part 5 and realized we were at the wrong hotel. Luckily, a bellman helped us a across a giant street with screeching traffic with all our luggage, two kids and a partridge in a pear tree. We finally settled into the Grand Hyatt in the Jin Mao tower across the street. It was an adenture!
But, the room on the 72nd floor was great. The girls loved riding the elevators, the buffet, swimming pool, etc. We visited the Shanghai Science and Technology museum (again, out of the set of Minority Report), the brand new flagship Barbie store (a story for another day) and did lots of shopping at the SuperBrand Mall.
Jed and I hit the Kee Club, a new member's only club in the fashionable French Concession, Saturday night. Not like we have suddenly gotten really cool, my friend from Tufts Will Plummer and his lovely fiancee Elisabeth were having an engagement party. Lots of cool, interesting people from Asia, Europe, America, etc and tasty drinks all around.
Glamma is leaving tomorrow, and we will all miss her, especially the guys at the hair salon, where she has gotten a $10 wash and dry every few days for the last two weeks. I was thinking she was going to offer one a visa to come to Chicago with her :)
Sunday, March 22, 2009
Thursday, March 5, 2009
mama drama
This week was a bit of drama since we decided to pull Veronica out of the British school and move her to the American school. Not that we didn't like the British school, we really did and Veronica looked so cute in her uniform and was developing quite an English accent (which Natalie has almost perfected). The problem was that she was in Year 1, which was doing work equivalent to 1st grade but the kids were same age as K in the States. Our biggest concern was with her Sept birthday, would she be held back a year when we got back? Who knows. It was a tough decision but before she got too comfy at British School, it was off to the Shanghai American School, which is also walking distance from our "compound".
Interestingly, there are only 1-2 "Western" kids in each class at SAS - most of the other kids are Korean or Chinese, although the Chinese must hold a US passport. I am attending a wedding shower for one of the teachers today so I will try to get the scoop on where everyone comes from. SAS is a great school, with a fabulous campus, and as I am learning, an outstanding Mandarin program.
Speaking of which, I am into my second week of language class and trying to pick up as much as I can. Its hilarious listening to myself speak chinese (hilarious to chinese people too, trust me). If you are only reading pinyin (english spelling, ie - wo qu Xing Li Du - I am going to starbucks), its not that complicated. Chinese characters are another story, we'll see how I do with that. I would like to continue as long as I can, especially so I can tell if the girls are talking about me behind my back!
Brooklyn has also been in Asia this week. My friend Ellen's sister, Kerry, came to visit us and got a huge kick out of the compound and my life here in the Scottsdale Home for Expat Retirees. Maria's husband is meeting Jed for dinner tonight in Hong Kong, where he has been all week.
Saturday night, we have inexplicably been invited to the black tie Benelux Chamber of Commerce Ball in downtown Shanghai, which will be an event, I'm sure. The sun has finally come out so I will try to take some pictures around town and the compound. Hope everyone is well!
Interestingly, there are only 1-2 "Western" kids in each class at SAS - most of the other kids are Korean or Chinese, although the Chinese must hold a US passport. I am attending a wedding shower for one of the teachers today so I will try to get the scoop on where everyone comes from. SAS is a great school, with a fabulous campus, and as I am learning, an outstanding Mandarin program.
Speaking of which, I am into my second week of language class and trying to pick up as much as I can. Its hilarious listening to myself speak chinese (hilarious to chinese people too, trust me). If you are only reading pinyin (english spelling, ie - wo qu Xing Li Du - I am going to starbucks), its not that complicated. Chinese characters are another story, we'll see how I do with that. I would like to continue as long as I can, especially so I can tell if the girls are talking about me behind my back!
Brooklyn has also been in Asia this week. My friend Ellen's sister, Kerry, came to visit us and got a huge kick out of the compound and my life here in the Scottsdale Home for Expat Retirees. Maria's husband is meeting Jed for dinner tonight in Hong Kong, where he has been all week.
Saturday night, we have inexplicably been invited to the black tie Benelux Chamber of Commerce Ball in downtown Shanghai, which will be an event, I'm sure. The sun has finally come out so I will try to take some pictures around town and the compound. Hope everyone is well!
Sunday, March 1, 2009
rain rain go away
Holy Chinese Arc, has it been raining here. This is the 15th straight day of clouds/rain. I really feel like I moved to Seattle or Northern England. It is a damp rain too, about 40-50 degrees, the kind that seeps into your bones. Luckily, our apartment is really well heated but I noticed that a lot of places aren't. Chinese construction is not the best quality, as you could guess. Coupled with the fact that Chinese people are notoriously cheap - well, we have a pretty drafty situation.
The rain is not usual and should subside later this month for the official start of Spring. Aparently, May and June rock and by July, its a tropical steambath for a few months, which sounds pretty good right about now. I will look forward to seeing those May flowers!
We did have a really special weekend. Veronica and Natalie found some wonderful new friends that invited them to a private pottery class at the Hongqiao flower market. For less than $10/class, the girls had a private lesson in the famous flower market and made some beautiful pottery. It goes on for a few more weeks so I will definitely take pix next time. While they potted, Jed and I bought an entirely new set of plates, bowls, mugs and serving platters for about $100. Oh, Jed was one happy guy after that.
Still working on the blog and will try to add more pix and less copy. Most days I am so happy to be here and be having this amazing experience. Some days I feel like I am running uphill in a sandpit. A very few days, I have wondered what the @#@$%$ I am doing here. Then, I have the ayi paint my toenails while I watch Oprah and I feel better (jk).
Love to all!
The rain is not usual and should subside later this month for the official start of Spring. Aparently, May and June rock and by July, its a tropical steambath for a few months, which sounds pretty good right about now. I will look forward to seeing those May flowers!
We did have a really special weekend. Veronica and Natalie found some wonderful new friends that invited them to a private pottery class at the Hongqiao flower market. For less than $10/class, the girls had a private lesson in the famous flower market and made some beautiful pottery. It goes on for a few more weeks so I will definitely take pix next time. While they potted, Jed and I bought an entirely new set of plates, bowls, mugs and serving platters for about $100. Oh, Jed was one happy guy after that.
Still working on the blog and will try to add more pix and less copy. Most days I am so happy to be here and be having this amazing experience. Some days I feel like I am running uphill in a sandpit. A very few days, I have wondered what the @#@$%$ I am doing here. Then, I have the ayi paint my toenails while I watch Oprah and I feel better (jk).
Love to all!
Tuesday, February 24, 2009
1.3+ billion people can't be wrong
OK - So, we all know there are a lot of people in China, right? But how does that manifest itself in daily life and how does that make it different than the US, which has a lot of people too? Here are a few for instances:
1) I walked into a tasty frozen yogurt store last weekend. Very american, I know, but I was having a craving. Think of the Tasti-D on Union in Park Slope - maybe the guy who works there will acknowledge you, maybe not, maybe he will be on his cell phone or blasting hip hop or something. Hopefully you will get your yogurt and get out. Here, there were literally 3 people standing at the door, opening it for me. One of the them escorted me to the counter, where 3 more people awaited me. Each one took a step in the process from the cup to the yogurt to the cash register. Before I sat down, one of the 3 cleaning people wiped my table and all the other tables around me. All told, 11 people worked in this tiny yogurt store.
2) I have been looking around at schools this week since the British system is much more different than I thought (long story) and every class room has 1 Western teacher, 1 Chinese teacher and 1 cleaning person, whose job is cleaning up behind the kids all day.
3) Three people deliver our mail together every day.
The biggest manifestation of all the people in China, or here in Shanghai, is the traffic, which is a topic for another day, but lets just say the one lane=one car rule does not apply.
Hope everyone is doing well back home! We miss you all!
1) I walked into a tasty frozen yogurt store last weekend. Very american, I know, but I was having a craving. Think of the Tasti-D on Union in Park Slope - maybe the guy who works there will acknowledge you, maybe not, maybe he will be on his cell phone or blasting hip hop or something. Hopefully you will get your yogurt and get out. Here, there were literally 3 people standing at the door, opening it for me. One of the them escorted me to the counter, where 3 more people awaited me. Each one took a step in the process from the cup to the yogurt to the cash register. Before I sat down, one of the 3 cleaning people wiped my table and all the other tables around me. All told, 11 people worked in this tiny yogurt store.
2) I have been looking around at schools this week since the British system is much more different than I thought (long story) and every class room has 1 Western teacher, 1 Chinese teacher and 1 cleaning person, whose job is cleaning up behind the kids all day.
3) Three people deliver our mail together every day.
The biggest manifestation of all the people in China, or here in Shanghai, is the traffic, which is a topic for another day, but lets just say the one lane=one car rule does not apply.
Hope everyone is doing well back home! We miss you all!
Thursday, February 19, 2009
Tai-tai's corner
So, I am getting the hang of this tai-tai culture here at the racquet club. Tai-tai means "Mrs" in Chinese and expat ladies are often refers to as tai-tais (not to be confused w/ta-tas, which is what some people around here call them). Labor is cheap, cheap, cheap here in china so all tai-tais have a lot of help. All around the compound are chinese men standing outside their mini-vans waiting for their tai-tai to be ready to head out. Maybe for lunch, maybe for tennis, maybe shopping. But probably not grocery shopping, since that is the ayi's job.
Ayi, which means "auntie", can be filipino or chinese but spends her day cleaning, doing laundry, cooking, taking care of the kids and grocery shopping. The average salary for an ayi is about $2-3/hour for chinese and about $4/hour for filipino. Most work full-time, some live in.
So, when we got here, I was pretty adament that I would not have an ayi or a driver, since I would be way to spoiled and coming home will be a big slap in the face. Whether its true or not, its been strongly recommended to us that we get some "staff" because its good guanxi (sort of like kharma) and good for the local economy. And given all the layoffs here and abroad, well, I will just have to go for it.
I have been interviewing ayis and Jed has been interviewing drivers and I will try to remember that china is something new and not to get too used to anything. But, if you come to visit, expect some seriously clean laundry and a ride home from the airport. Hope everyone is well...more to come.
Ayi, which means "auntie", can be filipino or chinese but spends her day cleaning, doing laundry, cooking, taking care of the kids and grocery shopping. The average salary for an ayi is about $2-3/hour for chinese and about $4/hour for filipino. Most work full-time, some live in.
So, when we got here, I was pretty adament that I would not have an ayi or a driver, since I would be way to spoiled and coming home will be a big slap in the face. Whether its true or not, its been strongly recommended to us that we get some "staff" because its good guanxi (sort of like kharma) and good for the local economy. And given all the layoffs here and abroad, well, I will just have to go for it.
I have been interviewing ayis and Jed has been interviewing drivers and I will try to remember that china is something new and not to get too used to anything. But, if you come to visit, expect some seriously clean laundry and a ride home from the airport. Hope everyone is well...more to come.
Monday, February 9, 2009
Ni hao Shanghai
Ni hao! Welcome to my blog. Several people have been kind enough to ask me to keep a blog and share our experiences here in Shanghai. I will try to make it a little snappier but this is a start.
Overall, so far, so good. A few initial thoughts: there is a system to everything but we have no idea what it is, everything is taking 2-3x as long, expats are super friendly and welcoming, no one leaves voicemails, there are a lot of people who have jobs as cleaners, expats are VIPs and it is to everyone's advantage that expats are comfortable and happy, and I am one big American woman here.
Our "compound", the Shanghai Racquet Club, could not be any more lovely. The service, the grounds, the staff - its a cross between a chinese club med and a retirement community in boca raton. There are indoor and outdoor pools, tennis courts, playgrounds, restaurants, shops, etc. Even a medical clinic - which I took little one to yesterday and it was spotless and dare I say, relaxing! A fabulous Swedish MD spent almost an hour with us and provided us with antibiotics on site - no pharmacy. The clinic is affiliated with a Western hospital down the road that everyone says is like a spa. I don't doubt it.
The little neighborhood outside the compound is funny - straight up China on one side and Starbucks/Papa Johns/Coldstone Creamery on the other. Highlights are the "discounted" DVD stores and very cheap massages. There are some Chinese snack shacks that I haven't gotten the nerve to go into yet, but they look delicious.
For shopping, you can get just about every American product here at these overpriced expat grocery stores. The cool thing has been enjoying the overpriced expat products from Europe such as French jam, German bread and Italian pasta. All those "made in china" tankers have to come back with something, right? There are a few of these markets within walking distance. I have also been adventurous buying fruits and veggies at the local "wet market" which is about 1/10th the price ( would be 1/50th the price for someone who didn't look like me). Its really cool - great fruits and veggies, but also (which I am not buying, don't worry), fish and chicken and half cows hanging around. Also fresh tofu and noodles, which maybe I will work my way up to. I will try to take some pix, if I get the courage. Everyone stares at me when I go there - which I am trying not to mind.
Most importantly, the girls are doing great! Their school is tops. Big one made a great new friend from English who lives in our compound and little one has a buddy from Australia who lives nearby. 1st grade class has 15 students and one English and one Chinese teacher, nursery is 14 kids with one English and 3 Chinese teachers. Lots of outdoor play, since the weather here is pretty good, Chinese class, lunch in the cafeteria (british/chinese food, which the girls are actually eating!), numeracy (math), literacy (reading), etc. The uniforms are an absolute blessing! Getting dressed in the morning is a million times easier. The school is a 15 minute walk but they are taking a coach, which I have had to ride with them everyday, but I like going to the school since the teachers and parents are really welcoming and nice. Everyone here has been the new kid so they go out of their way to make us feel welcome.
Jed is trying to keep his head above water, now that all the visas and body checks and all that are over and the real work begins. I love his stories of new office politics he has to deal with - its a different world! I have a few more weeks off and then back to my US work, which I really miss and am excited to get back to.
Facebook, skype, email etc makes the world seem so small and me not so far away. I love hearing from everyone and its made the transition so much easier. I can say with 100% that I am so grateful for having spent 10 years in NYC, which really prepares you for a lot and makes you very resourceful.
I will try to post more info on new adventures - in the meantime, pls send any and all mundane details from Brooklyn and beyond.
Overall, so far, so good. A few initial thoughts: there is a system to everything but we have no idea what it is, everything is taking 2-3x as long, expats are super friendly and welcoming, no one leaves voicemails, there are a lot of people who have jobs as cleaners, expats are VIPs and it is to everyone's advantage that expats are comfortable and happy, and I am one big American woman here.
Our "compound", the Shanghai Racquet Club, could not be any more lovely. The service, the grounds, the staff - its a cross between a chinese club med and a retirement community in boca raton. There are indoor and outdoor pools, tennis courts, playgrounds, restaurants, shops, etc. Even a medical clinic - which I took little one to yesterday and it was spotless and dare I say, relaxing! A fabulous Swedish MD spent almost an hour with us and provided us with antibiotics on site - no pharmacy. The clinic is affiliated with a Western hospital down the road that everyone says is like a spa. I don't doubt it.
The little neighborhood outside the compound is funny - straight up China on one side and Starbucks/Papa Johns/Coldstone Creamery on the other. Highlights are the "discounted" DVD stores and very cheap massages. There are some Chinese snack shacks that I haven't gotten the nerve to go into yet, but they look delicious.
For shopping, you can get just about every American product here at these overpriced expat grocery stores. The cool thing has been enjoying the overpriced expat products from Europe such as French jam, German bread and Italian pasta. All those "made in china" tankers have to come back with something, right? There are a few of these markets within walking distance. I have also been adventurous buying fruits and veggies at the local "wet market" which is about 1/10th the price ( would be 1/50th the price for someone who didn't look like me). Its really cool - great fruits and veggies, but also (which I am not buying, don't worry), fish and chicken and half cows hanging around. Also fresh tofu and noodles, which maybe I will work my way up to. I will try to take some pix, if I get the courage. Everyone stares at me when I go there - which I am trying not to mind.
Most importantly, the girls are doing great! Their school is tops. Big one made a great new friend from English who lives in our compound and little one has a buddy from Australia who lives nearby. 1st grade class has 15 students and one English and one Chinese teacher, nursery is 14 kids with one English and 3 Chinese teachers. Lots of outdoor play, since the weather here is pretty good, Chinese class, lunch in the cafeteria (british/chinese food, which the girls are actually eating!), numeracy (math), literacy (reading), etc. The uniforms are an absolute blessing! Getting dressed in the morning is a million times easier. The school is a 15 minute walk but they are taking a coach, which I have had to ride with them everyday, but I like going to the school since the teachers and parents are really welcoming and nice. Everyone here has been the new kid so they go out of their way to make us feel welcome.
Jed is trying to keep his head above water, now that all the visas and body checks and all that are over and the real work begins. I love his stories of new office politics he has to deal with - its a different world! I have a few more weeks off and then back to my US work, which I really miss and am excited to get back to.
Facebook, skype, email etc makes the world seem so small and me not so far away. I love hearing from everyone and its made the transition so much easier. I can say with 100% that I am so grateful for having spent 10 years in NYC, which really prepares you for a lot and makes you very resourceful.
I will try to post more info on new adventures - in the meantime, pls send any and all mundane details from Brooklyn and beyond.
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